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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.